Design and Build by E. Nelson
Skill Level: Intermediate
Cost: Approx. $200 USD
Consider working with your local high school woodshop to have this table fabricated.
This table was designed for a second-grade class with a height of 27”. I designed a storage tray below the table top to help store materials, as seen in the photo to the left.
I used pocket holes and screws for all joinery. A pocket-hole plan saves time and money. Examples of this can be seen below in pictures.
The table is sealed with a clear coat of polyurethane. Details can be viewed below in the step-by-step guide.
A DIY Maker Space Table for the K-3 Classroom
Maker space Table
Preparation
Shopping List
Qty 2 - 2x4 Premium grade pine
Qty 5 - 1x3 Premium grade pine
Top 1/2” MDF (you will need one sheet measuring 32”x54” and another sheet measuring 21-1/2”x47”)
All materials can be purchased at your local hardware or home improvement store.
When purchasing lumber look for premium grade boards. Check to be sure the boards are straight and free of imperfections.
Cut List
5 - 1x3 @ 21-1/2” (Bottom Tray)
2 - 1x3 @ 48-1/2” (Bottom Tray)
3 - 1x3 @ 26” (Top Support)
2 - 1x3 @ 50” (Top Support)
4 - 2x4 @ 26.5 (Legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 23” (Leg Support)
1 - 1/2” MDF @ 32”x54” (Table Top)
1 - 1/2” MDF @ 21-1/2“ x 47” (Bottom Tray Top)
Other Materials
Pocket hole screws
Wood Glue
Pre-drill pocket holes before joining and screwing the wood together.
Use wood glue whenever creating a joint.
General Instructions
Read through the entire plan before beginning this project. It is important to view all photos before proceeding. Work in a clean space free of debris and distractions. Take all necessary safety precautions when working with power tools and machinery.
The step-by-step directions are as follows. You will find a printable PDF of the instructions without images below.
Step 1: Make the table legs. (Fig. 1) You will be making two identical leg sections in this step.
Cut all wood to length. (Fig. 2)
4 - 2'“x4” @ 26.5’ (Legs)
2 - 2”x4” @ 23” (Leg Support) (Fig. 2)
Pre-drill pocket holes on the underside of the cross piece (2x4x23). For this project, I used the Kreg pocket hole system. (Fig. 2, 3)
Measure and mark 6” from the bottom of the leg. (Fig. 4)
Working on a clean flat surface, use the 6” reference line from step 3 to line up your cross piece on the legs. Then attach the cross piece to the legs using pocket screws. (Fig. 5)
Repeat steps 3 and 4 to create the second set of legs. *Note these legs should be identical (Fig. 1,6)
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
Step 2: Make the top of the table. (Fig. 7)
*Note: This table top is removable to accommodate any doorways.
Cut all wood to length.
3 - 1'“x3” @ 26” (Top Support)
2 - 1”x3” @ 50” (Top Support)
1 - 32”x54”, 1/2” MDF Sheet (Tabletop) *NOTE: you may choose to wait and cut this after the frame for the tabletop is built.
On the (3) 1”x3”x26”, measure and mark 13” from the end.
Then pre-drill pocket holes, as seen in Figure 8.
Repeat this step until all three pieces are identical.
On the 2 - 1”x3”x50”, measure and mark 3” from each end. Then measure and mark every 8” (give or take) *Note these holes will secure the tabletop to the frame and will not be visible.
Then pre-drill six pocket holes, as seen in Figure 9.
Repeat this step until both pieces are identical.
On the (2) 1”x3”x50”, measure and mark 25” from the end. This reference is to center the middle support.
Working on a clean flat surface, you will place the (3) 26” boards inside the (2) 50” boards. As seen in Figure 10.
As seen in Figure 11, you will attach at corners and in the middle using pocket screws.
*Note: Ensure all pocket screws on the side of the boards face the inside and go down. As mentioned above, these holes are used to attach the tabletop and should go in the same direction
8. Center the frame on the MDF tabletop. Measuring for a 2” overhang.
9. Attach the MDF table top using 1” pocket screws. (Fig. 12, 13)
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12
Step 3: Make the bottom storage tray. (Fig. 14) *Note: This tray is removable should you need to transport it.
Cut all pieces to length.
5 - 1”x3“ @ 21.5” (Tray)
2 - 1”x3” @ 48.5” (Tray)
1 - approx. 21.5 ”x47”, 1/2” MDF Sheet *NOTE: you may choose to wait and cut this after the frame for the tray is built.
Pre-drill pocket holes on the (5) 1“x3"x21.5” parts, as seen in Figure 15.
Working on a clean flat surface, you will build the tray frame as pictured in Figure 16.
Using pocket hole screws, attach the outside corners first.
Add the bottom support pieces last.
Check the inside measurement of the tray base. It should be 21-1/2“ x 47”.
With this measurement, cut the bottom of the tray from the 1/2” MDF.
Place the MDF inside the tray.
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Step 4: Assembly- join table top to legs
The tabletop and tray are joined using carriage bolts and wing nuts. Using these will allow the table to be disassembled when needed. Specifically, taking the table top off to fit through any interior doorways.
You will use four carriage bolts 2-1/2” long, four washers, and four wing nuts to join the top to the legs. (Fig. 18)
Check fit. Check the fit of all four parts before continuing with assembly. (Fig. 17)
You will use four carriage bolts 2-1/2” long to join the top to the legs.
Measure, as seen in Figure 19, from the corner 2-1/2” and then down 1-1/4”.
Using a 5/16 drill bit, drill a hole through the tabletop frame and the leg. (Fig. 20)
Hammer the carriage bolt through the hole and place a washer and wing nut on the bolt. (Fig. 21)
Repeat these steps on all four legs. Figure 22 shows how this will look from underneath the table.
Figure 17
Figure 18
Figure 19
Figure 20
Figure 21
Figure 22
Step 5: Assembly- join bottom tray to legs
The tabletop and tray are joined using carriage bolts and wing nuts. Using these will allow the table to be disassembled when needed. Specifically, taking the table top off to fit through any interior doorways.
You will use four carriage bolts 3” long, four washers, and four wingnuts to join the top to the legs. (Fig. 23)
Center tray on the support of the legs. (Fig. 17)
Measure, as seen in Figure 24, from the inside edge of the tray. In the corner 2-1/2” from the leg side and then 1” open side.
Using a 5/16 drill bit, drill a hole through the MDF, tray frame, and leg. (Fig. 25, 26)
Hammer the carriage bolt through the hole and place a washer and wing nut on the bolt.
Repeat 2-4 on each corner of the tray.
Repeat these steps on all four corners. Figure 27 shows how this will look from the bottom when finished.
Figure 23
Figure 24
Figure 25
Figure 26
Step 6: Finishing
Router the top edge of the table.
Apply two coats of clear sealant such as polyurethane, to MDF. *Note: Figure 29 shows the sealant I chose. Apply at least two coats of sealant is required to seal the MDF. IF THIS STEP IS NOT DONE, the MDF will take on moisture over time.
Apply one coat of polyurethane to the wood.
Last, add casters to each leg following the directions of the manufacturer. I chose casters that can disengage when the table is in use. (Fig. 30, 31)
*While casters are optional, their addition will allow for greater flexibility in moving the table as needed.
Figure 27
Figure 28
Figure 29
Figure 30
Figure 31